Monday, January 30, 2012

Le Grenier a Pain Une autre boulangerie, Chef Patrick and moi!

Just like cupcakes, Macarons caught up fast here in Malaysia. Everyone wanted a taste of it, everyone wants to buy it at least once, wondered what was the real thing; and if you listen really carefully (it's a Chef's secret in many parts of the world), many were having a tough time getting it right every time. If you ask me, it's really so easy, rather time consuming and you will get it wrong most of the time.

Nevertheless, it was my mission to taste-test it at "Laduree", find out about "The Real Mccoy", learn about it in Paris itself; and make and bake it in Paris. And I did!

The French Macaron is a feather-light, elegant sandwich cookie re-created time after time by passionate Pastry Chefs. The base of the cookie crumples during baking and is called "the foot" while the top crust is domed and more fragile than an egg shell. The base ingredients are egg white, ground almonds, powder sugar and castor sugar. There are a variety of flavours, classic to dark chocolate, vanilla, coffee, pistachio, passion fruit, mango, raspberry, salty caramel, rose, (to name a few) and sandwiched with buttercream, ganache, curd or thick preserves. So far, real macarons are also hard to find here in Malaysia, I have yet to come across anything quite similar to the ones I've tried in Paris.

I chose to learn this Parisian Macaron  (which by the way is best made with Italian meringue) at Le Grenier a Pain Boulangerie Patisserie located at Serves taught by Executive Pastry Chef Patrick Morin. I was to meet up with Corrine Preteur, CEO of Cooking and Lifestyle Vacations France at the front entrance of Darty Store, exit of rue de Bellevue. My class was scheduled for 3 hours, 2.30 to 5.30 pm. As planned, Brabon was to "drop me off" and "pick me up" accordingly and we were gonna head down to "Domaine de Lintillac"          for our "French Dinner". Well, that was the plan.

We waited for a bit, Corrine arrived, introduced ourselves, spoke a little, met another American couple who were joining the class, Brabon left and off we went. 

We arrived at the Boulangerie, had a really nice cup of coffee and some petite choux pastry, met Patrick's wife, some folks who worked there, sat around and took some shots. 

  
This is the kind of Boulangerie and Patisserie I'd like open here  in  Malaysia
Le Grenier a Pain - famous for their french baguettes
Large Meringues
I love french tarts...pity there's no demand here in Malaysia...I just love to make them!
of cookies and cake loafs
preserves...
all sorts of breads fashioned by hand....
and cakes, eclairs...
The American couple
  
Our class took place in the heart of the boulangerie, in a vaulted basement. There is something magical about  the space, the heat from the oven, the aroma, the coolness from the stoned walls, and the cloistering embrace of the low arched ceiling. How lucky I was to be there, with a french chef!

I got to really like Chef Patrick, he seemed old fashioned, warm and very comfortable to learn from. He spoke to me in French and I spoke to him in English! I say old fashion because while other chefs used their thermometers (like me) to test for softball (116-118 degrees) or hardball (125 degrees) characteristics for sugar syrups, he showed me another way. Pick up the syrup with your fingers! People, please don't try this at home.... 






see what I mean??? Awesome!
                                     


Except for the Italian Meringue, everything was made by hand, imagine my tiny delicate wrists, half dead! Consistency, consistency, arrgghhh! And colours...oh my God...he is sssooo fussy...no drops..paste!






                                      

                                      



























"the foot"
See what I mean about the walls and ceiling!















Rose, Vanilla, Dark Chocolate, Pistachio
from Napa Valley, Calif
                                   
As you can see how easy it is to make....and also screw up over and over again!!! Yeap, happens all the time even to me. Anyway, by the time we got out it was past 7 and windy and cold, poor Brabon! We found him waiting ever so patiently - out in the chilly air. "Quickly, let's go for hot coffee and warm you up" I said. After our coffee, I looked at him, he got the chill. "Come, let's go back...dinner can wait"...     

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Merrily, merrily, life is but a dream...

It's a free day today (yes, there is "such a thing" even when you're an independant traveller) and the following were some things on our TO DO list.

1. Wake up late
2. Check out Marche de St-Quen de Clignancourt and Mellow Yellow at The Marais
3. Take the River Seine Cruise
4. Make reservations and go for that "must have Dinner"

The plan was flexible for numbers 2, 3 and 4 in consideration to what takes place to number 1. Of course, we woke up early to the sounds of cleaning, clearing and restocking on Rue de la Huchette at The Latin Quarter so what would be more gratifying then having bottomless cups of coffee, making and eating breakfast, staying on facebook while loading the hundreds of photos we've taken so far?..exactly! Furthermore, a peep out of the window suggested it was a little cold and cloudy...emmm..."why don't I try and write a little while you go by the river, get the cruise schedule and get us the tickets"?..I said to Brabon. "Ok, I can do that, just make sure you're ready when I get back, you wanted to go to Mellow Yellow right?" "Yes, yes" I smiled and replied...in my head I was thinking "well, that just gives me a lot of time to write"..."why can't I just be on a holiday and don't do nothing"..."some people do that, you know"..."in fact...I remembered asking Doctor Kevin once what did he get to do in London during his holiday and he said "SLEEP AND JUST DON'T CARE, Jen"..."arrghhh....how I wished"!

I was ready but not quite ready to hear what Brabon had to say when he got back; fast enough. Would you believe it, they have a schedule for the boat rides but they can't use it today, we have to see how the weather progresses and behaves! Nevermind...let's just stick to the plan...a sunset cruise it will be, for now, off to the Marche and Marais!

I have always had a thing with Flea Markets, don't you?...I went to my first one when I was in California in 1980. In fact, I had indeed bought something which I gave to my sister and she still has it! So when I heard that Marche de St-Quen de Clignancourt is reputedly the largest flea market in Europe, I had to experience it. We took the metro straight to Porte de Clignancourt. When we arrived we had to wrestle a bit to finally walk in the right direction. We were novices in spite of being armed with maps and including a GPS, ask they say and you will get there. I say, ask the right ones and how do we get that right? Nevertheless, we got the drift and then already we saw a couple of stalls under a bridge...we didn't go there (no, definitely not what I had envisioned), we continued to walk ahead. Next thing we knew, we were strolling along with other folks, it was the flea market....the famous fashion avenues and no, not 2nds. Going along, but hey, here is what happens. As tourists, we had several disadvantages, mostly, we don't speak French (how then can we bargain?), taking out our good camera is not a good idea (be sure to bring a light pocket cheaper one for outings like this), we were VERY small compared to the Africans and Latinos whom appeared to be the peddlers (they spoke French), all in all, we felt intimidated. Reluctantly I bid farewell to the Furlas, Pradas, Armanis, the gorgeous local fashion stuff and all the bold and beautiful clothes from Barcelona. I became very cranky and so decided that it would be best to forgo the rest of the market. We didn't buy A THING and I was pouting!

Now apart from Mellow Yellow (it's a funky shoe brand), I wanted to check out The Marais because I had been to Versailles (loved it) and I wanted to see for myself this place that King Louis XIV moved away from. I was interested to see the most gay-friendly district with gay-oriented restaurants,wine bars,boutiques,bookstores, B&Bs, etcetera. You see, in Paris, you can plonk yourself outside a cafe-facing outwards, smack in the center of things, order some wine or coffee and literally watch the world go by.

like this!
I think it can be quite fun because a lot of things and people of all sorts of culture fascinates me. Unfortunately, not so for Brabon, he on the other hand, would prefer an aircraft or space museum of sorts, racetracks, distillery, a game of sports, you know, that kinda thing! So we walked around  for awhile, Brabon was as usual communicating with his GPS and the streets while I wait patiently for a sign. You guessed it, in the end, we still. could. not. find. Mellow Yellow. "I'm starving" I eventually said "Can we eat please"? So up and down we went along the streets.....searching for "that place" to eat!!! It was a half an hour decision and we ended up at Dome.

Beef Steak  in a kind of sauce - I'm one to remember what I ate only when it tastes good.
16 Euro 

Beef above is better than this pasta!
15 Euro

Brabon as optimistic as can be
Chewing on the pasta and don't even bother to ask about the wine

I can honestly say that we were really really lucky to live in an apartment with a good kitchen. We get to buy stuff at Monoprix (found on every high street and open till midnight) so we can have the freedom to choose, control and enjoy what we eat as often as we can. To pay happily in Euro is to indulge in what is at least 80% guaranteed to be good. Pardon Dome, I have say, I mean, look at that face! So you can guess....the mood after a lousy lunch and a hole in Brabon's pocket, we went straight back to our digs, to sleep it off! But we remained open minded and still looked forward to a great sunset river cruise, the weather was encouraging.




So about 6-ish we went straight across and down to the river banks to sort out our tickets. We were told that tickets for the 9pm cruise (about sunset) will start selling only at 8pm. Also, if we wish to use our Eurail discount, we may do so, however we will have to take the cruise from the Eiffel Tower. Otherwise, we can still enjoy a smaller discount via our Paris Visite. Now they tell us!!! Can we just like come back at 8pm and take the cruise from here??? Brabon agreed, makes good sense. 
Alright! We have 2 hours......let's walk around a bit.....to the west side of Notre Dame Cathedral (Brabon needs to take more photos, I guess), through a park (thank goodness) and some shops.(at last!)... 

  


         
   

The city of Paris IS ON SALE!

Eventually, our stroll took us to Paris' right bank of the Seine which is, if you see, across the bridge below towards the 4th arrondissement, The Marais and Bastille, where we were at earlier in the day. What'da you know! 2 of Paris' most wonderful surprises awaited us! Esterina aka Paris' best ice-cream was beckoning...

Street musicians of Fete de la Musique setting up their gear
I so like!
Let's wait patiently for everyone to disperse.. 
Errr...let's see..."Je voutre" oh...you're British!

quickly...so we can sit and enjoy the music!
We're seated on the pavement...watching and eating ICE-CREAM...
some street R&B jazz...
We spied a lady on a bike pause to listen and on the far balcony...
was Logan's french cousin! 
Pleased with the music and extremely delicious ice-cream, we decided to explore a little more and you know what, we found The Church of St-Gervais-St-Protais. If there was one Church on my list to visit, this was it! You see, when at home, I read this circulation from our BEC called "Shalom, thoughts for prayers". In this circulation, there is a break section titled "The Road to Daybreak-A Spiritual Journey shared by Henri J M Nouwen where he described St-Gervais-St-Portais as a place to experience...and here it was. An oasis of peace for all to draw upon, morning, afternoon or evening - where all can find rest in God from the hectic pace of city life.    

This church, the very first parish on Paris' right bank of the Seine, was built on a small hill to escape river flooding. It is dedicated to Sts Gervais and Protais, twin brothers martyred about 70AD.
Community of Jerusalem saying the Rosary at The Chapel of Our Lady








This elevation consists of two levels; the great arcades below and the high windows above. Such verticality is rich in symbolism; everything speaks of lifting one's soul to God.
This is the oldest organ in any Paris church (some parts date to 1500). Members of the Couperin  family, renowned  throughout Europe for their musical genius, played it during a period of 173 years between 1653 and 1826. It currently contains 2 400 pipes divided into 41 ranks.
Sad to say the church was closing as we also hurried to leave and our only regret was not to find that old beggar we saw upon entering the church. Although beggars are beggars and mind you, there will be many more to come but somehow this one felt different...

Anyway, we arrived at the river with plenty of time left in waiting and so we watched as boats pass by with loads and loads of tourists laughing out loud, waving and cheering at us, we observed that there were some luxury boats hosting private events; and the rich and famous, some boats with quiet and romantic diners, also the youth of sorts that hung around the banks of the river, chatting, picnicking, playing; and couples with  wines and cheeses, speaking ever so softly and gently. It was a sight...and the culture! In those moments, I thought of my kids.   






We hopped on - straight to the upper deck for the view. Okay...my text actually ended here, I thought the photos were good enough to speak but some feedback insist...you didn't finish, there's no ending, alang-alang,......

So....the temperature was about 16 degrees and as I mentioned earlier, many pushed and rushed to the upper deck. Everyone was seated, ready, happy, cameras standby and as soon as we departed, everyone  started scrambling, click. click. click. yeap, everyone owns a phone camera, except me!








We were going against the wind, it was past nine, and the sun, was going, going, almost gone. The guide was talking...woah...look left, look right, absorb, absorb, magnificent, stunning, awesome, I mean, it's ART you know...IT'S, IT'S FREEEEZZZINGGG! Vrrrooommm....all at the bottom deck are now warm and cosy...all still on the upper deck are behaving, quieter, holding hands, hands in pockets, armpits..sitting it out!     






Getting more and more chilly 

Tour de Agent - believe to be the most expensive restaurant in Paris. Run by The Terrail family, famous for it's  pressed duck raised on its own farm. Diners who order the duck gets a postcard bearing the duck's serial number which is now well over a million. They have a guarded wine cellar of approx 450,000 bottles worth around 250 million Euros. The restaurant inspired scenes of Pixar and Ratatouille.  


approaching the Eiffel
I'ts COLD....but it's...THE EIFFEL TOWER...it's there...there...look.look.."everyone on the upper deck get ready your camera and STAND BY" 






Yes, there it was! A sight to behold....to remember... 





Taken with the help of an American couple

The Eiffel Tower illuminated with 20,000 lightbulbs


The ride back was comfortable...of course, we were going with. the. flooow...we could now take in all of Paris, the smell, the air, the sense, the vibe, the magic....you won't experience all of these in the streets of the city, at the tower, at the metro, on the banks, from your window...but here!












I mean...look at this....





Ahh...Notre Dame and Land...





Our apartment from a distance....home for now....bonne nuit